It's
the retreat you run to when life becomes too intrusive, too overpowering. It's our place of solitude, where we can think and
rejuvenate our batteries. A friend of mine has her sanctuary up on
the moors. She has a rock that she sits on to meditate and pray. When
her mother died, she sat up there alone for nearly two days, with
nothing more than a few meagre rations and her thoughts. She was so
engulfed with her thoughts and emotions she lost all sense of time.
She was shocked to find that the police had been notified about her
as a missing person when she returned home.
When I
was younger, my friends and I used to spend a lot of time on a small
river not far from where I used to live. The sound of the water
gently flowing and the wildlife along its banks calmed me. Trust me,
there wasn't much that could calm me when I was young. When my
grandfather died I sat by this small section of river for hours by
myself, to grieve the only way I knew how, alone. The river has since
been diverted and what was once my sanctuary has been filled in and
houses and a supermarket built over all my memories.
I have
been lucky in life and have had the good fortune to travel and see
many beautiful and interesting places. But the place where I have
felt the most relaxed and at peace is actually a bar. This bar is in
a small village on the Algarve in Portugal. I don't want to name the
place or the bar as I want it to remain my sanctuary. This bar has no
walls, it is just a wooden bar to sell drinks from, with an awning tied
above to keep the glaring mid day sun out of your face. My wife and I have
sat here sometimes for a few hours, always late in the afternoon. We
usually will have no more than a couple of drinks there, but no-one
goes there to get drunk - you go there to chill.
To
reach the bar you must walk down a steep narrow road which is flanked
by small fishermens' cottages which are tightly packed together like
the sardines their owners hope to catch. Old ladies dressed in loud
floral patterned dresses stand outside of their houses with improvised
barbecues made from small tins with wire baskets on top. This is the
way they cook their sardines, as the houses are so small you couldn't
cook the fish inside - the smell would impregnate everything. As
strangers we are still always greeted with a smile and a wave from
these old ladies as they chat away to each other as we pass.
The
bar overlooks the sea, which is the Atlantic, an ocean that invites
you to dive in then freezes you for doing so! In the sea, young
Portuguese men ride surf boards like charioteers going into battle
while a few pale-skinned foreign girls look on, in a hope that they
will catch the eye of one of these young men, I'm certain they will
as I look on with a wry smile. At the bottom of the narrow road is
the beach and a set of cobbles, where old fishermen pull out their
small boats and mend their nets. These men see each other every day
but still they chat to each other like long lost friends. At the
height of the afternoon, as the sun teeters in the sky ready to fall
and set, people walk up pass the bar with the day's catch. An old
couple walk up hand in hand not speaking to each other, they don't
need to, they have been together so long they probably communicate by
telepathy.
The bar
is always silent except for a few mumbled voices, people from all
walks of life and from many different countries sit and contemplate
life or read that book they have been meaning to read for ages. My
beer glass has been stored in a chiller, so small trickles of water run
down its sides as it nestles my cold beer against the heat. My wife
and I also don't talk, we have no need to, we are comfortable with
each other's company and both know this is a place and a time to
think, to try make sense of life. Here there are no outstanding bills
that need paying, no family crises to sort. Work is a distant
memory, no one knows us, there is just us the bar and the world
slowly moving about us.
I
haven't been to this sanctuary for a few years. The last time we
visited it was hard to ignore the relentless growth of tourism
encroaching the village like a cancer. The locals may see it as
progress, but like all the other small villages around that area that
have been eaten by mass tourism, they will find that they will end up
being pushed out of the homes where they and their families have
lived for generations. Their small, family-run bars will be taken over
by British pubs and burger bars, leaving nothing but a soulless theme-park-type Disney village, devoid of ambience.
So now,
rather than visit my sanctuary, I keep it here in my head, and when
life attacks me I sit and release its calm image that leaves me
feeling comforted in a warm duvet of memories of Portugal of the
past.
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