The
above title was told to me this week by a man who I have known since
my infant school days. He's not a friend as such, just someone who
went to the same school as me. This is why I was a little baffled by
this comment. Does he think that our home town of Huddersfield is a
country? Or is he one of the many people that I speak to, who adopt
their parents' place of birth as their country? I'm afraid the latter
is true of this man. He thinks and talks as if he is a native of
Connemara in southern Ireland, he has the Connemara walk, which is
part 'Gangsta' and part New York pimp. And he constantly referred to
the British as 'They'!
He,
like me, has Irish ancestry, but then,who doesn't? If you were to travel
into the deepest Borneo jungle and encounter a yet unknown tribe,
there would be one little guy with bright ginger hair sitting there in
the tribal hut. When I was younger, it wasn't very cool to claim that
you were part Irish, as the IRA was bombing the hell out of Northern
Ireland and mainland Britain. Strangely, in Southern Ireland, where my
Mother comes from, they knew little about it. But now it's cool to
claim Irish ancestry. My Grandfather, who was born in County Clare in
1896 and lived to the ripe old age of 96, fought alongside
Michael Collins for independence: we have the photos and the stories
to prove it.
The
thing about the older generation of Irish men was that they were
fantastic story-tellers. The stories they told you were probably
untrue, but they were so good, you wanted to believe them. My
Grandfather would tell of his daring encounters during that time, and
he made it all sound like a boys' own story book. I'm sure that he
might have encountered an off-duty soldier posting a letter but when
the story was re- told to us many years later he would regale the
whole room with stories of how he beat off a whole platoon of 'Black
and Tans', armed with nothing more than a broken bottle and a rusty
penknife. The closing line would always be where some grateful
'Colleen' would ask him to stay and tell him just how brave he was, to
which he would reply, “Sure I did what any man would have done in
the circumstances. But now I must be off, before they come looking
for me, as it will be dangerous for you, for me to stay." Then he would
ride off into the sunset on his push bike. I don't care how much
truth was in those stories - not much, I would guess - but I still want
to believe them, as he was known as 'Big Paddy' and was quite a brawler
in his time.
When my father returned to Ireland, married to my mother, my grandfather took him to a local bar, which was full of 'regulars' who
didn't care much for the English. My father told me that Granddad
slammed his fist onto a table and the bar fell silent. He then
announced to the whole pub, “This is Peter Walsh from England. He's
my son-in-law. Does anyone have a problem with that?” the whole room,
as one, announced that they indeed had no problem with that. Then the
room burst back into life again. My father said he was so scared at
what had just happened that he felt a little tortoise head appear in
the seat of his pants!
Ireland
has changed out of all recognition since my many summer holidays
there as a small child. My mother was born and bred in Galway, which,
as a child, I remember was a dull backwater, but now has grown into a vibrant
seaside city. I would walk from my grandparents' house at one side of
the city to my aunt's house at the other side on Sunday mornings when
I was a child, and I would be lucky to see two people. Try that now in
Galway and the city centre is full to bursting! I hadn't visited
Galway for many years: the last time I went back to see my family
there was in 2007 and I didn't recognise the place. I couldn't even
find my way to where my uncle now lives, which is my grandparents'
house. But I do love the old Ireland, which is fast disappearing.
In the
late nineties, my wife, my son and I visited Clare to see one of my
aunts, who lived in the family home. There are two cottages where all
my mother's paternal line lived for generations. One of the cottages
was no more than one room. I had a distant relative who still lived
in it when I was a child. The room had a table a fire and an old iron
bed - that was it! Stone floor, thatched roof and a big, old home-made door. My grandfather, eight siblings and both my great grandparents
lived in this house. How they did it, I will never know!
When we
arrived, my aunt, who lived in a refurbished three-bedroomed cottage
across the road from the other house, was in Galway working. She had
left us a key out and told us to make ourselves at home, as she would
be back the following day. We did indeed make ourselves at home, and
that evening we walked up to the tiny village near my aunt's house.
The village was a handful of houses, a small shop, and a couple of
bars. We trotted into one of the bars and I ordered a drink. The
landlady of they bar gave me a huge smile on hearing my English
accent and duly served us. Later she came over to where we were sitting,
and like most of the country folk in Ireland was very friendly and
incredibly inquisitive about us. After the small talk about where we
were from and how our journey had been she asked, “And where would
it be that you're staying? Is it in the old holiday cottages over the
way?”
I told
her that we were actually staying with my aunt, to which she asked,
“And what would they be calling your aunt then?”
“Patsy
Brady” I replied. The woman smiled, then walked away from the table,
only to return minutes later. She grabbed hold of my hand and opened
my fingers and placed something into my palm. With all the charm and
grace she could muster she smiled sweetly, then said, “I think I
might have over charged you a little for the drinks!” and there in
my hand was the difference.
The
next day, my aunt came back from Galway with my cousin: it was lovely
to see them both. My aunt asked what we had done the previous evening
and I told her we had gone for a drink in the bar up in the village
the first thing my aunt asked was, “How much did she charge you for
the drinks?” I told her I think it was the going rate, to save any
fall outs.
The one
thing that Irish are famed for is their ability to drink. I'm
Irish/Italian, so I have double the ability. My wife is quite a lightweight when it comes to drinking. The following evening, we again went
up to the village for a few drinks. This depends on your
interpretation of 'a few'. It was a wonderful night. The board
outside the bar advertised a night of 'The Craic' I thought this was
a local band, until I realised it was the Irish spelling for what we
would pronounce as 'The Crack' which means having a laugh and joke.
There
was a middle-aged woman there, who must have been a stunner in her
time, but it seemed that life had caught up with her. For her, fashion
finished in 1964. She had a beehive hairstyle, a short skirt, and tan
tights. Her hair was peroxide blonde. She had a serious eye shadow
problem, as she had painted her eye lids bright green, but it didn't
seem to stop at her eye brows and continued up to her forehead. All
the men of a certain age seemed to fancy her, but though she was
strangely pretty in a curious sort of way, she was now quite portly
and was showing signs of disrepair. She constantly put sixties music
on an old record player then danced around the room as if she was
fifteen once again.
Men would try to dance with her, but she would
scorn them. I got the distinct impression by the way that the men
were behaving that once she had consumed enough drink she became very
vulnerable and they were all out to capitalise on this. My aunt would
sniff at her and snort, “Silly old whore” which saddened me. But,
as I have written about before, I have a 'weirdo' magnet on my person
somewhere that attracts people like this woman. She kept on beckoning
me over to dance ,which I kept on declining, but my wife and my
cousin found this funny and encouraged her to ask me again and tried
to pressure me into dancing with her. I finally gave in and danced
with this woman, I think it was dancing, but it could have been foreplay,
the way she touched me. My wife found this extremely funny, but she
wouldn't have laughed so loud had the woman been twenty years
younger.
The
night went well, and all had a good time. My wife was so drunk at the
end of the night we found her asleep in a wheelbarrow at the back of
my aunt's house. The next morning when we woke up, all, except my wife
were in good spirits. My aunt realised that she had no bread and
asked if I would walk up to the shop in the village and buy some, she
added, “And buy some rolls and I'll make us all a bacon sandwich.”
My son
and I walked up into the village, stopping to look at the local
graveyard to see any family connections that might be in there. The
family name is 'Sexton' and I have a sneaky feeling that up until a
hundred years ago my family, like the aristocracy, was quite inbred,
because the graveyard was full of Sextons!
We
entered the shop and I was quite surprised to see my dancing partner
from the night before working there, and she was no worse for the
amount of alcohol she had consumed the night before. She gave me a
big friendly smile and an unnerving masonic-type wink.
“What
can I do for you today?” she asked, with a mischievous grin on her
face.
“Could
I have a loaf of bread and five rolls please?” I replied, trying not
to look scared . She bent below the counter to get the rolls, then
stopped and her head slowly reappeared she smiled at me and asked, “I
was just thinking, would you like sex?”
My hairline receded half an inch at this question. I tried to smile, but I
could feel that my top lip had gone above my gum line and looked like
a snarling dog! My mouth had gone instantly dry. The fact that my
twelve-year-old son had just run from the shop to find his mother to
tell her that daddy was about to start copulating in the local shop
with the fat woman didn't help.
I
replied in a feeble little pathetic voice, “No thanks, just the
rolls." She looked at me with some confusion, then said, “What the
feck are you talking about?”
“I
just want the rolls.”
“I
know you want the fecking rolls, but if you have sex, I can do it
cheaper for you!”
I was
just about to tell her I would rather pay for the bread when it
dawned on me that she was just talking numbers, one, two, three,
four, five, sex, seven... I
managed to stammer that five would be quite ample as there were only
five of us and my wife was quite ill from the night before and
probably wouldn't want one, never mind sex!
I loved
my time there, but it has now all changed the locals have moved
on somewhere, I don't know where. The village is now full of city types
and, strangely, quite a lot of Germans. It's always sad when part of
your life disappears, but I suppose it's inevitable that things change.
So for me I can never go back to 'the old country', because, for me, it
no longer exists!